The ST50's are daisy changed together and we clipped off the last pigtail and soldered it to the cable supplied with the E22158 kit. The Vulcan 7 is picking up depth, wind speed, temp, and knot meter. Laylines are not working correctly being off by about 45 degrees to port. I think we need to go up the mast and adjust The ST50's are daisy changed together and we clipped off the last pigtail and soldered it to the cable supplied with the E22158 kit. The Vulcan 7 is picking up depth, wind speed, temp, and knot meter. Laylines are not working correctly being off by about 45 degrees to port. I think we need to go up the mast and adjust the wind vane.
Includes Replacement Wind Vane with Balance Weight and Cup Assembly, Fits ST50 and Early-Style ST60 Masthead Wind Transducers, Formerly Raymarine. The ST50 Plus Tridata also incorporates a security feature to protect instruments mounted in vulnerable areas such as the cockpit, helm or mast. Thank you for purchasing an Autohelm product.
I think we need to remove the wind vane from the shaft, turn the shaft until the V7 registers apparent wind direction at zero degrees and then re-install the vane so it is as close to pointing straight forward as possible. Adjusting the ST50 calibration moves the laylines on the V7 but then incorrectly moves the needle on the ST50. The ST50's are daisy changed together and we clipped off the last pigtail and soldered it to the cable supplied with the E22158 kit.
The Vulcan 7 is picking up depth, wind speed, temp, and knot meter. Laylines are not working correctly being off by about 45 degrees to port. I think we need to go up the mast and adjust the wind vane. I think we need to remove the wind vane from the shaft, turn the shaft until the V7 registers apparent wind direction at zero degrees and then re-install the vane so it is as close to pointing straight forward as possible.
Adjusting the ST50 calibration moves the laylines on the V7 but then incorrectly moves the needle on the ST50.
Hi All, Does anyone have an ST50 or ST50+ Tridata unit in bits please? Or indeed does anyone have one that's unmolested but dead? The reason why I ask is that when I bought my Nic 30, she was fitted with a mutilated Tridata unit as a chart table repeater, although I don't know if it worked as the way it was wired was strange to say the least! Anyway, when I removed it, I discovered that the transducer and log tails had had their plugs cut off; a visit to the very helpful people at Raymarine's service desk soon rectified that - they supplied me with two replacement tails with original plugs, which I duly fitted.
The speed, log and sea temperature side of the instrument now functions as it should, however I can't get any sense out of the echo sounder side. I've tried two different transducers with no joy, and I'm now wondering if I made a mistake fitting the replacement tail. In addition, I've tested the unit for RF emissions (Captain) - sounds very star trek: I simply tuned my old Hacker Hunter to Radio 4 LW, and could hear the interference emitted by the instrument as it generated echo-location pulses (!), which obviously aren't getting to the either transducer.
If you have one of these in pieces, or if you're not afraid to take it apart, I'd very much appreciate a photograph of the inside so that I can check my soldering! Any help would be much appreciated. Best Regards, Dave. When you listen to the long wave and get the ticking, does it change as you plug and unplug the tranducers? I've been led to believe the transducer is part of the tuned circuit for the power amp that transmits the ping.
(that's why you're supposed to leave the cable uncut as it's part of it too) You have to have the correct spec of transducer and cable to get a nice powerful ping. If the boat is out of the water, you should be able to hear the transducer without putting your ear too close. It will also reflect off a hard surface through air so you can make it read while on the hard too. or if you can access the bilge you may be able to hear it from the inside. Many thanks for all your replies.
Unfortunately, the circuit diagrams are of fairly poor quality - the linework being too feint to be legible when printed. Also, I can't say that the tone of the pulses when heard through the radio changed on connecting and disconnecting the transducer. Finally, the instrument was set up as a slave when I removed it, but the manual makes no mention of the depth and speed functions having separate slave / master setting functions. As I mentioned before, the major unknown quantity at the moment is my wiring!;-) Best Regards, Dave. When you listen to the long wave and get the ticking, does it change as you plug and unplug the tranducers?
I've been led to believe the transducer is part of the tuned circuit for the power amp that transmits the ping. (that's why you're supposed to leave the cable uncut as it's part of it too) You have to have the correct spec of transducer and cable to get a nice powerful ping. If the boat is out of the water, you should be able to hear the transducer without putting your ear too close. It will also reflect off a hard surface through air so you can make it read while on the hard too. or if you can access the bilge you may be able to hear it from the inside.Biljratt, It's been a while sine I posted this. I've been playing around with it again today, and after a little experimentation, I can now get the frequency pattern of the pulses (using my faithful old Hacker tuned to long wave) to changed when the echo transducer is connected, however I still cant hear anything for the transducer itself.
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My reply is also a little bump, as ideally, I'd like to get it working and sell it on. Cheers David.